Beauty adepts urge you to remember your school chemistry curriculum, because washing your skin every day with the wrong product will only make it worse. We tell you how to understand whether the product is right for you or not.
Cleansing is the first stage of any care procedure, both at home and with a cosmetologist.
If part of your cleansing involves washing your face with a special product, there is a chance of damaging your skin at this stage and causing serious problems. The top layer of the skin - the hydrolipid mantle - independently prevents both dehydration and infection of the skin by bacteria: pathogenic organisms do not get inside thanks to a mixture of fats, acids and waste products, and water molecules do not leave the epidermis from the inside.
The hydrolipid mantle works as expected only if its original environment is maintained, which can be assessed using pH. The pH value shows how acidic or alkaline a medium is. pH 7 is a neutral option, this result is shown by pure water, lower - acids, higher - alkalis. The skin of a healthy person is protected by a slightly acidic environment (on average pH 5), and if increasing the acidity of the barrier (that is, decreasing pH) within reasonable limits does not harm, then alkalization (increasing pH) disrupts the normal functioning of the epidermis.
There are many factors that damage the outer layer of skin. Some are beyond our control (skin diseases or damage from ultraviolet radiation), but a common mistake - chemical damage - is entirely our fault. Even washing with clean water has an insignificant effect on the environment of the skin, and regular contact with alkali causes invisible but serious damage. We're smart enough not to rub alkaline batteries or baking soda on our faces, but we don't realize that most cleansers still cause pH levels to spike.
The problem is that you rarely see the pH value of your favorite makeup remover on the label. But nothing prevents us from remembering our chemistry lessons and conducting an experiment at home. There is no need for calculations or complicated steps, and the only tool is indicator strips for determining pH. They are sold in online stores, for example here or here.
For the most accurate results, look for strips with the most detailed scale possible (usually it is shown on the packaging or included in the kit). If you are serious and want to calculate the pH of liquid soap, tap water, mom's soup and cat food, then you can invest in a special device - a pH meter. Those models that are suitable for home use do not cost more than the average face cream.
How to take the test
If you apply the gel with abundant foam on damp skin, then you are conducting the experiment under the same conditions - there is no point in measuring the gel directly from the tube.
Rub the product with water in your palm and apply a test strip to the resulting mixture. Wait a couple of minutes (time depends on the strips).
The strip will turn color, the value of which must be found on the scale. Ideally, your cleanser should show a pH of 5.5 or lower.
In the last post, we learned what skin pH is and why it is so important to maintain its balance. Today we will continue our research and talk about the pH of our cosmetics.
Is pH 5.5 ideal for all cosmetics or can it vary for some reason? Let's figure it out.
Alkaline products
Let's remember that the comfortable pH of healthy skin is from 4.7 to 5.7. An ordinary bar of soap has a highly alkaline pH of 9 to 11. Imagine how much this differs from the norm and how far from the acidic environment that is comfortable for our skin.
Choose liquid soaps and shower gels with a pH value as close to 5 as possible, but never higher than 6.5. This pH is safe for the skin and does not destroy its acid mantle.
Our tap water, due to the presence of chlorine, is not neutral, but an alkaline medium with a pH of 8. Therefore, just using tap water, even without adding detergents, violates the healthy pH. It may take up to 6 hours to recover. Now think about how many times a day we wash our hands.
Remember those unpleasant sensations of tightness, dryness, tingling and itching after washing or taking a shower? Now you know where they came from.
The optimal liquid for washing is a decoction of herbs and mineral water with an acidic pH. You can also acidify tap water, for example with lemon juice or apple cider vinegar.
Eye makeup removers
Our tears and eye mucosa have an alkaline pH of 7.4. That’s why there are separate special products for removing eye makeup - their pH is alkaline and is designed to interact with the mucous membrane. The magic 5.5 has absolutely no use for you here. The most comfortable product will be a product with a pH value from 7 to 7.6.
Depilatory products
Depilatory creams melt the hair shaft due to the fact that they have a highly alkaline pH of about 12. They can easily cause irritation and even burns. Therefore, never overexpose the product and be sure to soothe and “acidify” the skin afterwards. For example, aloe vera gel.
Hair dyes and perms
Paints have a pH of 8.5 to 11. Curling agents have a pH of 9 to 9.5. To neutralize the harmful effects of alkali, use shampoos with a pH of 5-5.5 and conditioners with a pH of 3-5.
Appearance and smell
This product is contained in a 250 ml plastic bottle. With a good and high-quality cap, which, as in other tonics from this company, immediately creates the impression of being strong and solid. It opens and closes tightly, which means that even after several hundred openings and closings, the lid fasteners will not break and will not become “another” annoying misunderstanding, which is definitely a plus.
For all the time that I have been using a variety of cosmetics, I have repeatedly encountered the fact that the lid, after several dozen closures, simply fell off or broke off in half. Which spoiled the impression of the product and the manufacturer in particular.
Inside the bottle, through the transparent walls, you can see the tonic itself - it is transparent, with a slight yellowish tint. It has a very light and unobtrusive peach scent.
Acidic products
Tonics
As it turns out, few people actually understand what tonics are for. I open the veil of secrecy. ☺ Tonics (especially those containing citric acid) restore the pH of our skin after contact with water. Their pH is between 3 and 5. This is why they are so important. Never skip this stage of care.
Peelings
Chemical peels, as a rule, have a pH from 1.5 to 3. Let us remember that a pH of at least 3 is considered safe for human skin. That is why apply peels to the skin for a strictly defined, short time and use a neutralizer that contains alkali. Of course, the concentration of acids is also important. Read more about this in the post 11 Top Things to Know About Chemical Peels.
Intimate hygiene
Products for feminine intimate hygiene, as well as eye makeup removers, interact with the mucous membrane and should maintain its comfortable pH, instead of disturbing it. That is why be sure to use a special product with a pH that is optimal for this zone - 3.8-4.2. Under no circumstances use shower gel, much less soap.
Mansion
Creams
The pH value of creams varies from 5 to 9. Creams with acids may have a lower pH.
It is especially important to maintain a certain pH range for creams containing enzymes. Each enzyme has its own operating pH range. Some work only in acidic environments, others in alkaline environments.
Most face creams have a pH of 5.5. It is in this case that you can see the inscription “pH balanced”.
This is a truly balanced, comfortable pH - but only for healthy normal skin. But for most of us it is not.
Advice from professionals
- Cosmetologists recommend not using products with a high content of acidic substances (5% or more) in the summer. Active elements do not retain their properties under bright sun.
Do I need to wash micellar water off my face?
You should not get carried away with concentrated acidic foods in the summer.
- After treating the skin with products containing AHA, BHA, it is not recommended to sunbathe or go out in the bright sun. The skin may become severely burned or develop pigmented areas. Acids reduce the resistance of the dermis to ultraviolet radiation. The solution is to use a cream with UV filters.
- Before using any acidic product, compatibility with dermis should be checked. To do this, a drop of the mass is applied to the neck under the ear. If no reactions appear within 10 hours, you can safely use the gel, foam, and tonic.
- Among the contraindications to the use of acid cosmetics are being pregnant or breastfeeding a baby.
Additional Information. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, certain hormones are released in the body. AHAs and BHAs, when interacting with hormones, can cause an allergic reaction, disrupt hormonal levels, and cause irritation and pigmentation.
Acids are equated to the elixir of youth. Products with these components are sold in pharmacies and specialized retail outlets. The main condition when purchasing is to choose the appropriate product for the type of dermis. Only in this case, acidic cosmetics, which also have irritating properties, will make the skin clean, velvety, radiant and elastic.
How to determine the pH of cosmetics
Tricky question.
The most competent manufacturers indicate the pH value on the packaging of the product. If it is missing, there are several options.
Contact the manufacturer.
Go to the official website, write a letter and ask a question. Good brands will not hide information. If there is no answer, or it is too vague, this is a reason to think about whether you should trust your choice to this manufacturer at all.
Litmus strips and pH testers.
Using litmus strips, you can easily check the pH level yourself. All you need to do is dip the strip into the product and compare the color with the scale.
If you have testers, you can do this right in the store.
The strips may differ in appearance, but the principle of operation is the same for all. Cost 100-200 rub.
Nowadays you can even buy an electronic device that will tell you the exact pH level. The cost of such a toy is 700-1000 rubles.
You can purchase these miracle devices in online stores, for example, here. Litmus tests are available in pharmacies.
You can roughly figure out which direction (acidic or alkaline) the pH of a product can be shifted by paying attention to its composition.
Ingredients that lower pH (acidifying) - lactic acid, citric acid, lemon juice, aloe vera gel, wheat protein.
Components that increase pH (alkalinizing) - alkaline mineral water, surfactants, triethanolamine, suttocide (preservative).
Homemade facial recipes
Lactic acid is a universal drug. It is used to prepare homemade masks, tonics, to enrich skin care creams, and for self-peeling. If it is not possible to purchase the ingredient, sauerkraut and milk will come to the rescue.
Compress mask for refreshing the face
To moisturize, soften the skin, lighten age spots and freckles, use a simple mask based on sour milk. After the procedure, you will notice a fresh, healthy complexion, the surface will become soft, elastic, and will look younger. To prepare the mask you will need:
- 4 tbsp. sour milk;
- 2 tbsp. oatmeal
Acidic or neutral
Acidic pH Cleansers
contain AHA and BHA acids in good working concentration. Acids loosen the top layer of dead skin cells, help them exfoliate faster and leave behind “new” smooth young skin.
All subsequent products - masks, serums, creams - penetrate into such skin much easier and deeper - because they do not need to break through a thick layer of dead cells. Therefore, acidic products are good to use before salon and home treatments to prepare the skin.
They are also perfect for oily, thick skin with hyperkeratosis and acne and will improve its condition with regular complex use.
Use acid cleansers before deep cleansers, masks, or in your daily routine, but no more than twice a week. Exfoliating too often leads to disruption of the skin's protective barrier. After all, we carry this layer of dead cells on ourselves for a reason.
- Comodex Clean & Clear Cleanser Cleansing gel;
- Fresh AHA Cleansing Gel – Cleansing gel with fruit acids for all skin types;
- Fluoroxygen+C Facial Gel – Cleansing gel.
Neutral pH cleansers
, as a rule, do not contain acids at all. These are the mildest products, our friends for every day. They can be used morning and evening after removing makeup with special products. They will gently remove dirt and oil from the skin without disturbing the pH balance of the skin.
Gel, foam or mousse
Typically gels
Recommended for oily and problem skin and for summer.
They cleanse stronger and deeper.
Due to their delicate “soft” texture, foams and mousses
But there are no strict restrictions and the choice depends more on the composition of the product and the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Read the labels, pay attention to the pH, experiment and you will definitely find a comfortable cleanser consistency for yourself.
List of products related to this review:
Advantages and disadvantages
We all know that each remedy has its own pros and cons, and if it seems to you that everything is fine, then most likely you simply did not attach importance to something. So.
pros
- Delicate and unobtrusive scent;
- Quickly absorbed;
- Reduces oily shine;
- Slightly mattifies the skin;
- Cleanses well from makeup residues;
- Well prepares the skin for the subsequent application of decorative cosmetics;
- There is no re-greasing.
Minuses
Did not notice the prevention of the formation of blackheads. For the test, I applied it to previously mechanically cleansed nasal skin for several weeks. Black dots appeared where they were supposed to.
